For his third collection, Roseberry aimed to challenge popular ideas of what ‘couture is and should be’ Boston Red Sox Jarren Duran 16 Player Vintage Shirt. Interrogating silhouettes, fabrics and embellishments, Roseberry embraced the unconventional by playing with exaggeration and the unexpected. Look 15, dress, also on display, references founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature colour – shocking pink – which she adopted from 1937. The work also pays homage to Schiaparelli’s embrace of the uncanny and surreal, with metres and metres of fabric seemingly suspended from large hoop earrings. Look 6, Minidress and hat​ from The Matador collection, autumn-winter 2021–22, is a direct homage to an Art Deco evening coat from Autumn 1937 made by Elsa Schiaparelli. The original work features a double image on the back: one of two faces in profile, the other of a vase of roses. Executed in shell-pink silk applique, the roses are multiplied, extending across the upper bodice and cascading down the sleeves. To achieve this, Roseberry worked with long-standing French embroidery house Lesage, who made the original 1937 version. The garments are presented alongside a gilded selection of costume jewellery and accessories, including the recognisable Bust bag​ from spring-summer 2021, with its moulded leather torso, as well Roseberry’s anatomical eyeglasses, finger pieces, earrings and breastplates. The presentation sees the works enclosed within a celestial space immersing visitors through video projection and sound. With her wild imagination and revolutionary approach to fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a unique creative spirit to 20th century design. Turning ordinary objects into some of the most memorable creations, Schiaparelli expressed her creative talents through fashion, fragrance, and what we refer to today as “merchandising,” blurring the boundaries between creative brilliance and commercial success and developing an innovative business model that is still used by most major fashion houses today. Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, Jean-Michel Franck, and Alberto Giacometti, among others, became legendary. Her legacy has consistently contributed to mainstream culture throughout the decades and continues to inspire people across creative industries and continents. A true artist herself, Schiaparelli is the creative force behind some of fashion’s most revolutionary shapes, techniques, and colours, redefining new standards of style and what beauty means. In 1940, she won the Neiman Marcus Awards for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion for her significant influence on the industry. In 2019, the house of Schiaparelli appointed American born designer Daniel Roseberry as Creative Director, based in the iconic Salons Schiaparelli at 21 place Vendome, Elsa’s home, and atelier.

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Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, Boston Red Sox Jarren Duran 16 Player Vintage Shirt with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”