This season saw a retelling of the romantic narrative that designers flirt with every spring season, Rowdy 44 It’s Not A Belly Rub Cut and Smack Shirt only this time it comes with an edge. There were sweeping gowns to swoon over but with modern translations to balance them out, such as fresh silhouettes, fabric pairings and garment combinations. The runway imagining of the Dakota Johnson adaptation of Persuasion, if you will. For me, the mood is encapsulated by Liberowe’s viral peplum jacket. “I’m a sucker for practicality and so most of my wardrobe consists of classic, capsule basics like black trousers, striped knits and white shirts,” professes Dawes. “But that doesn’t mean there’s not a part of my soul that longs to embrace a world of prettier, more ‘feminine’ fashion. Enter the modern romantics trend; an all-round cooler, fresher and easier way to incorporate chiffon-y pastels, frills and bows into our everyday wardrobes, and an answer to my fashion prayers. “The S/S 24 collections are all about wearability, but this trend is proof that doesn’t have to mean boring. All it takes is layering a flash of pink and lace under a trench coat as seen at Gucci, adding a bow to comfortable kitten heels at Erdem or a cardigan to your favourite full skirt, or pairing pearl earrings with a monochromatic outfit by way of Givenchy. If Marie Antoinette was dressing for 2024, she’d be spearheading this trend for certain.”

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Flo Milli gave fans the visuals they’d been wanting for “Never Lose Me” earlier this year. Rowdy 44 It’s Not A Belly Rub Cut and Smack Shirt In the video for the viral single, she’s decked out in a full Pucci catsuit, an iced-out watch and fire-red acrylics. Styled by Jenna Tyson, this look is not only symbolic of the rapper’s continuous rise in music, but it’s also part of the momentum fueling the Italian fashion house’s renaissance of late. Pucci was founded in 1947 by Emilio Pucci in Florence, and became renowned for its instantly recognizable bright, graphic prints on timeless silhouettes, favored by everyone from Marilyn Monroe to Madonna. In the following millennium, though, it experienced a bit of a slump, lacking innovation and a recognizable creative leader to push it forward. In 2000, LVMH acquired a majority stake in the brand, which then saw a revolving door of creative directors through 2017 (including Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and Massimo Giorgetti). It went without a full-time head designer until 2021, when LVMH purchased the house’s remaining shares and appointed Camille Miceli as artistic director. Today, the brand’s comeback is well underway — but it’s about more than a new designer or the post-pandemic dopamine-dressing trend or simple nostalgia. What’s perhaps made the biggest impact is how, under Miceli, Pucci has savvily built a roster of modern muses, with artists like Cardi B, JT from the City Girls, Flo Milli, Ice Spice and Alicia Keys. “It makes so much sense that the resurgence of Pucci would be with female hip-hop acts and female rappers, [who are] these really dope, powerful women making their own lane in a male-dominated space,” Marissa Pelly, who has previously styled Ice Spice, tells Fashionista. “Having a female creative director at such a legacy brand is really amazing to see. I feel like Camille just gets the girls.” Since Miceli took over, Pucci has been featured in music videos for Nicki Minaj and Ice Spice’s “Barbie World” and Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion’s “Bongos”; Flo Milli also wore the brand during her 2023 Coachella performance. The brand is also getting more name drops lately from the likes of Drake and Gunna. (It helps that Pucci rhymes with Gucci.) But what about the label and its aesthetic make it right for hip hop?. “It was always the resortwear brand — my mentor is Misa Hylton, and she was always a Pucci girl,” Tyson says of the legendary stylist who helped define hip-hop and R&B artists’ looks since the 1990s. “I always remember her having archival Pucci. It was always something that she wanted to pull. [Misa] loves everything that’s bold, colorful and that could play on those lines between proper fashion and ghetto fabulous. Because Pucci is so bold and has such vibrant colors and patterns, it gives life to the hip-hop world that we would often create.”. This is part of what influenced her to put Pucci on Flo Milli for “BGC”: “It’s bright, it’s colorful, it’s different and it’s not typically what you would assume that she would be in. You could see her cleavage, so she still feels young, but it’s fun. It’s something that you wouldn’t think that a 23-year-old girl would wear, that still gives fun and sexy.”