For his third collection, Roseberry aimed to challenge popular ideas of what ‘couture is and should be’ Optimism T shirt. Interrogating silhouettes, fabrics and embellishments, Roseberry embraced the unconventional by playing with exaggeration and the unexpected. Look 15, dress, also on display, references founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature colour – shocking pink – which she adopted from 1937. The work also pays homage to Schiaparelli’s embrace of the uncanny and surreal, with metres and metres of fabric seemingly suspended from large hoop earrings. Look 6, Minidress and hat​ from The Matador collection, autumn-winter 2021–22, is a direct homage to an Art Deco evening coat from Autumn 1937 made by Elsa Schiaparelli. The original work features a double image on the back: one of two faces in profile, the other of a vase of roses. Executed in shell-pink silk applique, the roses are multiplied, extending across the upper bodice and cascading down the sleeves. To achieve this, Roseberry worked with long-standing French embroidery house Lesage, who made the original 1937 version. The garments are presented alongside a gilded selection of costume jewellery and accessories, including the recognisable Bust bag​ from spring-summer 2021, with its moulded leather torso, as well Roseberry’s anatomical eyeglasses, finger pieces, earrings and breastplates. The presentation sees the works enclosed within a celestial space immersing visitors through video projection and sound. With her wild imagination and revolutionary approach to fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a unique creative spirit to 20th century design. Turning ordinary objects into some of the most memorable creations, Schiaparelli expressed her creative talents through fashion, fragrance, and what we refer to today as “merchandising,” blurring the boundaries between creative brilliance and commercial success and developing an innovative business model that is still used by most major fashion houses today. Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, Jean-Michel Franck, and Alberto Giacometti, among others, became legendary. Her legacy has consistently contributed to mainstream culture throughout the decades and continues to inspire people across creative industries and continents. A true artist herself, Schiaparelli is the creative force behind some of fashion’s most revolutionary shapes, techniques, and colours, redefining new standards of style and what beauty means. In 1940, she won the Neiman Marcus Awards for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion for her significant influence on the industry. In 2019, the house of Schiaparelli appointed American born designer Daniel Roseberry as Creative Director, based in the iconic Salons Schiaparelli at 21 place Vendome, Elsa’s home, and atelier.

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Considering the fact that Khaite was just founded in 2016, Optimism T shirt the journey of this brand thus far is quite remarkable. Founder and designer Catherine Holstein started the brand as an ode to American staples and all the classics that went along with it. Since its beginning, the brand has evolved into much more. Khaite’s first runway show in 2019 had every editor and buyer clamoring as one glamorous look after another came out. It was here that we were truly introduced to Holstein’s vision for the brand, and her S/S 20 collection was just the cherry on top. It’s rare that one major (and first-ever, might I add) runway collection can convince an entire industry that this is the brand to know, buy, and wear, but the elegance and drama of her last two collections had everyone drinking the Kool-Aid. While the brand hasn’t quite reached the same status as Bottega Veneta, its trajectory over the last two years has proved that it is on its way to the very tip-top. “Cate Holstein of Khaite is creating such beautiful, showstopping pieces. The craftsmanship is absolutely impeccable and something that everyone can appreciate. My personal favorite is their denim—the fit and wash are flawless,” says Shopbop’s fashion director, Caroline Maguire. And that’s the thing about Khaite—buying into the brand is buying into a very well-curated wardrobe that will never go out of style. “From the jeans to the shoes, this is definitely going to be the next It brand in 2020,” said a Who What Wear reader. Yes, iconic pieces are already highly praised, such as those zebra boots and all of the noteworthy knitwear, but to be simultaneously recognized for the subtler items in a collection, like denim and poplin shirts, means this is a brand that is destined for success.