Every expert I’ve spoken to has been most excited by the many pairs of perfectly cut trousers in the spring/summer 2024 collections, Not too sweet shirt which should hardly come as a surprise. Trousers have ruled the trends (and the market) for years now, and that’s set to continue as we head into the season, with an emphasis on the wide-leg variety. Yes, we love our leggings and joggers, but yes, we’re also interested in looking elegant, too. “I’ve never been a dress or skirt person, which is why it gives me great pleasure to see trousers continue to make such a statement on the S/S 24 catwalks,” says Who What Wear UK affiliate editor Emily Dawes. “Any stuffy, overly smart or uncomfortable connotations are well and truly out of the window now, though. As if the dependable wardrobe power piece couldn’t get any better, trousers are all comfort first for 2024. The loose, wide-leg silhouettes we’ve become accustomed to of late are staying (great news for my existing collection). Whether it be cargos (most definitely still a thing) or more relaxed, drawstring-waist styles, fluidity is key. Who needs joggers now?” Who, indeed. Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”

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Known for his strong use of fabrication and colour, Not too sweet shirt Jonathan Saunders has proved that men need not fear the backlash of strong shades. Using his expertise in precision cutting and wise patterning he has conjured up another sweltering collection consisting of finest attributes. Set in the backdrop of Elms Lester’s painting room the collection was awash with dashes of yellows, forest greens and ocean blues. Those of which stood out most within the soft open air, seamlessly blending together, the designers furious use of pattern. It was this very element that was the most touching, within the simpler use of pinstripe lay the more complex use of dots. Laid out in a spectrum of shades, the inspiration for this for this was Op artist Victor Vasarely who was famous for using the symbols in his many pieces of work. They almost helped bolster the under layers of looks – honey comb texturing suddenly felt more vibrant, as did the circular shades. This was a stride towards the future – belted coats with aromatic finishes teamed up with fine knits in a display of sheer craft and exuberance.