In short Lazy Is a Very Strong Word I Like to Call It Selective Participation shirt . It is safe to say there will be very little overlap between Philo’s customers and those of Slimane. The big question leading up to his first Celine collection on Friday night was whether or not he would dramatically change the aesthetic, or offer something new that somehow connected his style to the heritage of Celine. But, as he rightly noted in an interview with Le Figaro this week, Celine hardly has much of a recognizable heritage to begin with, as it started as a children’s shoe boutique in the post-war years of France before venturing into ready-to-wear in the 1960s. Before Philo, there were many other versions of Celine: Michael Kors designed Celine for years. So did Roberto Menichetti, and who can forget Ivana Omazic? Don’t everyone raise your hand at once.

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So Slimane was certainly entitled to take his own approach, and that he did Lazy Is a Very Strong Word I Like to Call It Selective Participation shirt . Of course, he removed the accent from the name Celine, for architectural reasons, he quasi-explained. (It used to be Céline.) And he picked up right where he left off at Saint Laurent, with a base of skinny suits — black, black, black, and short dresses. The show space, an enormous black block erected in the front lawn of Les Invalides (this modern structure looked strikingly like the Mercedes-Benz dealership in Paramus), was much like the technical marvels he created for Saint Laurent, with a grand mirrored backdrop that opened like a crystal flower, with mirrored pillars revolving until a runway was bared.  Slimane’s designs are, by now, quite familiar, but still, you cannot argue against their appeal. Even the booties were eerily similar with their criss-cross straps, with a little more slouch in them, perhaps, but still, don’t you want them? I don’t blame you. Les smokings were on fire, as always. The minis couldn’t have been shorter had they been designed by a gynecologist. Black ruled the day, and the night, but there were a couple of options in red and gold, too.
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