Milan witnessed a big change, too. Christian Walker Stadium shirt Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.

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From British sporting achievement to Mediterranean artistic endeavour, Christian Walker Stadium shirt Hackett London’s SS13 collection gave a unique and modern twist to some classic menswear attire. To begin, Hackett paid homage to the iconic F.Scott Fitzgerald novel The Great Gatsby whilst bringing a new modernity to traditional men’s style. Three-piece suiting cut from wools, linens, silks and cottons were top of the bill and featured in a palette of cream, ivory, bone and summer white. Meanwhile, jacket lapels were bigger than usual to complement the welcome return of the double-pleated wide leg trousers. Next, the show travelled back in time and revisited a period when artists such as Picasso and Matisse ruled the Riviera. Playful paisley print trousers were balanced with plainer separates whilst the Breton stripe featured throughout. To conclude, patterns and colour dominated, with bold stripes and gingham checks splashed across blazers and bright reds and blues covering trousers.