For his third collection, Roseberry aimed to challenge popular ideas of what ‘couture is and should be’ Celebrating 150 years ky derby day vintage shirt. Interrogating silhouettes, fabrics and embellishments, Roseberry embraced the unconventional by playing with exaggeration and the unexpected. Look 15, dress, also on display, references founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature colour – shocking pink – which she adopted from 1937. The work also pays homage to Schiaparelli’s embrace of the uncanny and surreal, with metres and metres of fabric seemingly suspended from large hoop earrings. Look 6, Minidress and hat​ from The Matador collection, autumn-winter 2021–22, is a direct homage to an Art Deco evening coat from Autumn 1937 made by Elsa Schiaparelli. The original work features a double image on the back: one of two faces in profile, the other of a vase of roses. Executed in shell-pink silk applique, the roses are multiplied, extending across the upper bodice and cascading down the sleeves. To achieve this, Roseberry worked with long-standing French embroidery house Lesage, who made the original 1937 version. The garments are presented alongside a gilded selection of costume jewellery and accessories, including the recognisable Bust bag​ from spring-summer 2021, with its moulded leather torso, as well Roseberry’s anatomical eyeglasses, finger pieces, earrings and breastplates. The presentation sees the works enclosed within a celestial space immersing visitors through video projection and sound. With her wild imagination and revolutionary approach to fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a unique creative spirit to 20th century design. Turning ordinary objects into some of the most memorable creations, Schiaparelli expressed her creative talents through fashion, fragrance, and what we refer to today as “merchandising,” blurring the boundaries between creative brilliance and commercial success and developing an innovative business model that is still used by most major fashion houses today. Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, Jean-Michel Franck, and Alberto Giacometti, among others, became legendary. Her legacy has consistently contributed to mainstream culture throughout the decades and continues to inspire people across creative industries and continents. A true artist herself, Schiaparelli is the creative force behind some of fashion’s most revolutionary shapes, techniques, and colours, redefining new standards of style and what beauty means. In 1940, she won the Neiman Marcus Awards for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion for her significant influence on the industry. In 2019, the house of Schiaparelli appointed American born designer Daniel Roseberry as Creative Director, based in the iconic Salons Schiaparelli at 21 place Vendome, Elsa’s home, and atelier.

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I don’t drink coffee, Celebrating 150 years ky derby day vintage shirt but something tells me I’m going to develop a caffeine addiction this season. Beige used to be a dirty word in fashion circles, but my, how times have changed. The main character in the quiet-luxury aesthetic, one might argue that the term itself is now dated, but its impact certainly isn’t. With plenty of neutral looks edging on the lighter, caramel side of the colour spectrum, we witnessed the shade being worn top-to-toe by models across all four cities, in every show from Michael Kors to Max Mara. “Every year, I find myself gravitating towards a particular colour which ends up playing the lead role in my wardrobe,” says Joy Ejaria, Who What Wear UK social media editor. “I’ve gone through many phases, and last year’s pink moment still occupies a fond place in my heart. But this year, I want to mute it down a little. We’ve had quite the obsession with dressing like our favourite foods—’vanilla girl’ and ‘tomato girl’ are just two examples. If you thought this trend was on its way out, then think again. This year, I and many others are taking things up a notch and turning our fashion heads to our favourite coffees. The lure of ‘latte dressing’ lies in how easy it is to create expensive-looking outfits, whatever your budget.” “Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m fully expecting the backlash of stealth wealth and quiet luxury to begin shortly, but in terms of what people actually want to wear? They’re after items that feel realistic for their lives,” says Block. “That means black trousers that are cut just right, knitwear that looks good whether you’ve thrown it over a pair of joggers or a slip dress and a classic white shirt. Even major brands such as Versace—usually known for its mega-glam pieces— are leaning into ’90s minimalism, along with the likes of Bottega Veneta and Coach. Even though this trend has been around for a few seasons, it’s so easy to slot into any current wardrobe as it provides the timelessness that plenty of buyers are after. Similarly muted tones over at Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Maxamillian Davis’ Ferragamo were also pushing the more ‘wearable’ concept, with the latte-dressing trend continuing from last season and well into next.”