Every expert I’ve spoken to has been most excited by the many pairs of perfectly cut trousers in the spring/summer 2024 collections, Keinemusik X DC 10 Shirt which should hardly come as a surprise. Trousers have ruled the trends (and the market) for years now, and that’s set to continue as we head into the season, with an emphasis on the wide-leg variety. Yes, we love our leggings and joggers, but yes, we’re also interested in looking elegant, too. “I’ve never been a dress or skirt person, which is why it gives me great pleasure to see trousers continue to make such a statement on the S/S 24 catwalks,” says Who What Wear UK affiliate editor Emily Dawes. “Any stuffy, overly smart or uncomfortable connotations are well and truly out of the window now, though. As if the dependable wardrobe power piece couldn’t get any better, trousers are all comfort first for 2024. The loose, wide-leg silhouettes we’ve become accustomed to of late are staying (great news for my existing collection). Whether it be cargos (most definitely still a thing) or more relaxed, drawstring-waist styles, fluidity is key. Who needs joggers now?” Who, indeed. Last season, there was a clear ’90s directive when it came to minimalism, with logo vests, low-slung trousers and tube dresses as hero items. Now, things have been pared back even further; sure, Y2K maxi skirts and oversized suiting are very much a thing, as witnessed on the runways of Bottega Veneta and BOSS, but the silhouettes are cleaner and the colour palette even more refined. “After the outright outrageousness of various Y2K comebacks, I’m pleased to see a palette-cleansing take on ’90s fashion coming to the fore,” says Who What Wear UK editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi. “This was the peak moment for brands like Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang and many more names whose special brand of clean-cut is being referenced once again for 2024. I’m very much here for this grown-up take on plain outfit ideas, and I think it will be a powerful way to craft a workwear wardrobe in the coming months.”

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Nike fans might attempt to make a case for a comparable influence on culture. Keinemusik X DC 10 Shirt But there’s one way in which Adidas unarguably leaves it in the dust: its relationship with high fashion. While Adidas, like Nike, has released several tie-ins with important niche fashion brands and cult designers – A Bathing Ape, Craig Green, Fear of God, Palace, Moncler, Wales Bonner et al. – it has also collaborated with several major league names, including the likes of Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Gucci, Prada and Stella McCartney. But then, in 2003, Adidas’s most unlikely pairing came with the avant-garde Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. The resulting Y-3 line, which in time would lead to the creation of an entirely new division for Adidas – Sports Style, alongside Performance and Originals – would, it’s not too bold to claim, reshape fashion entirely. Launched a decade before athleisure went mainstream, Y-3 opened the portal for a more direct relationship between high fashion and sportswear that many other companies would later capitalise on. As Yamamoto pointed out, consumers were already looking not to fashion designers for inspiration but to athletes and rock stars. Put simply, in the words of Yamamoto, “we created something that did not exist before”. Sometimes Adidas has got it right, and very right indeed. If it had turned down Michael Jordan, it wasn’t going to miss an opportunity like that again. This time it would be Nike that dropped the ball. Yamamoto approached Nike with his proposal first. “Their answer was very sharp and straight: ‘No, no, no. We will never make that [kind of clothing]. We are doing only sportswear’,” as Yamamoto would recall. “So I made a call to Adidas. And immediately they said yes.”